11 Critical Checks Before Buying a Used Car

Buying a used car can save money, but skipping the right inspections can lead to costly mistakes. From mechanical checks to paperwork, these 11 critical things ensure you make a safe, smart purchase. Don’t finalize a deal before going through this checklist.

The Service History

This is like, number one. The car’s diary. If they have a big, thick folder of receipts from a dealer or a good shop? That’s green flag city. But if it’s… nothing? Or just a couple of oil change stickers from a place you’ve never heard of? Uhm, big red flag. You wanna see regular oil changes, tire rotations, the works. A car with a perfect history might be a grand or two more, but it’s worth it. Like, for a $15,000 used Civic, paying $16,000 for one with a full book is a way better deal.

A Pre-Purchase Inspection

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT skip this. It’s like a hundred, maybe hundred-fifty bucks. You take the car to a mechanic you trust, not their guy. This one move has saved me from, like, two absolute disaster cars. The seller was all “it’s perfect,” and the mechanic found a cracked engine mount and transmission fluid that looked like mud. It gives you so much power, you can either walk away or use it to knock the price down. Just… just do it.

The Title Status

This is the boring-but-critical paperwork bit. You need to see the actual title. Is it “clean”? That’s what you want. Or is it “salvaged” or “rebuilt”? That means it was totalled by an insurance company and someone fixed it. Now, sometimes they’re fine, but a lot of times… they’re nightmares. Hidden frame damage, electrical gremlins forever. And good luck insuring it. A salvaged title can knock thousands off the price a $20,000 car might be $12,000—but it’s usually for a really, really good reason.

The Test Drive Feel

You gotta drive it properly. Not just around the block. Get it on the highway. Do the brakes feel spongy? Does the steering pull to one side? Listen for any weird clunks, whines, rattles. Turn off the radio! Seriously. And try every single button windows, AC, heated seats, sunroof. I once almost bought a car where the sunroof was glued shut, you know? The seller “forgot” to mention it.

The Exterior Body Panels

Okay, get down on your knees. Look at the gaps between the doors and the body, the hood, the trunk. Are they even? Or are some tight and some wide? If they’re wonky, it’s had body work, maybe from a crash they didn’t tell you about. Also, look for paint that doesn’t quite match from one panel to the next. That’s a sure sign of a cheap repaint. A car with a perfect, consistent factory paint job on a, say, $18,000 used Mazda CX-5 is a way safer bet.

The Underside & Frame

If you can, get a look underneath. Is it just surface rust, like a little orange dust? That’s probably okay, especially up north. Or is it flaky, crunchy, hole-y rust? That’s structural cancer. Run away. And look for any parts of the frame that look bent or welded weirdly. A quick peek can save you from a car that’s literally falling apart.

The Tire Wear

This seems small, but it tells a story. Are the tires worn evenly across? Good. Are the edges worn down super fast? That means the alignment is probably off, maybe from hitting a curb or pothole. And if you have to replace all four tires immediately, that’s like six hundred bucks you didn’t plan on. So on a car advertised for $14,000, you’re really paying $14,600, you know?

The Interior Smell

Get in and take a big sniff. Seriously. Does it smell like old coffee and air freshener? Fine. But does it smell musty, like a basement? That means water is getting in somewhere, and you’ll never get that mold smell out. Or worse, a sweet smell can mean leaking coolant from the heater core, which is a crazy expensive fix. Your nose knows!

All the Electronics

We live in the digital age, so test EVERYTHING. Plug your phone in, does Apple CarPlay or Android Auto work? Pair your phone to the Bluetooth. Do all the speakers work? Check every power outlet. Fiddle with all the climate control settings. A broken infotainment screen in a modern car can be a $2,000 fix, which on a $25,000 used car is a massive hit.

The Engine Bay When Cold

Try to see the car first thing in the morning, when it hasn’t been run. Pop the hood. Look for any obvious leaks oil, coolant, anything wet or drippy. Then start it. Does it start right up, or does it crank and crank? A car that’s hard to start cold can have a bunch of issues. A smooth, quick start from cold is what you wanna hear.

Your Gut Feeling

This is the last one, but it’s so important. How does the seller seem? Are they evasive, rushing you, pressuring you? Or are they patient, letting you look, answering all your questions? If something feels off, it probably is. There are a million used cars out there. Don’t get emotionally attached to one until after it’s passed all the other checks.